It's official: I'm again completely smitten with Sri Lankan cuisine after making beetroot curry at a remote guesthouse.
Finding authentic Sri Lankan cuisine has been a problem on past trips. People there prefer to eat at home rather than in restaurants; most cafes close at 8:30 in the evening, and even the finest hotels cater to foreigners by reducing the portions on their menus. But on my latest Sri Lanka Travel Guide mission, I was determined to delve into the genuine local culinary scene. And here are the gems I unearthed:
Deep-fried snacks at a women's cooperative
Mangosteens
I went to a covered food market in Kandy with Anjalee, a foodie, since she wanted me to try some native cuisine. The trip continued through the fresh produce, dried fruit, and meat departments, beginning with the fruit stands, where I sampled acidic soursop, sweet-and-sour mangosteens, and creamy custard apples. As someone who has spent much time in Indian marketplaces, I was amazed to try fruits and vegetables I had never seen or heard of before.
After that, we stopped by a Hela Bojun women's cooperative lunch restaurant, a local favorite, that provides employment opportunities for women. The ladies worked in what amounts to an open kitchen, deep-frying various delicacies for the hungry locals. Come in and try some samples while sipping on some "builder's tea" (tea with milk). Wade, a gently spicy savory doughnut, was my favorite.
Cook beetroot curry in a rural homestay.
The first stop on this tour and cooking class is usually the local bakery, where you can see the traditional baking method in a clay oven. After that, you and the owner take a tuk-tuk ride to the nearby market to get the supplies for your dinner. It was as if I were a bystander observing ordinary life.
Returning to the guesthouse, a 200-year-old family estate in Gampola, where I had the opportunity to learn four or five dishes from the family chef, the trip concluded. Participation is heavily encouraged. This class teaches you to cook various vegetables, coconut milk, and curries using clay pots over an open flame. Eating my creations was the most enjoyable part for me. I prepared the beetroot curry again after getting home since it was delicious.
Cycling and food in Habarana
Sigiriya Rock
For those who like cycling, there is a fantastic culinary-themed trip on peaceful back roads close to Sigiriya Rock. Along my journey, I stopped in many small towns to chat with locals and get a feel for their crafts. The local fisherman's house was my first destination; his family graciously provided us with delicious, freshly cooked lake fish. A bricklayer, a broom maker, and an Ayurvedic oil maker were among the other artisans I encountered.
After the trip, we stopped by the guide's house for lunch, which his wife had made. Along with that, she proceeded to demonstrate how to cook dhal by herself using a gas stovetop. After that, we had a family meal of authentic Sri Lankan cuisine prepared at home.
Seafood Adventures in Jaffna
I suggest a trip to Jaffna, the birthplace of the spicy Jaffna crab curry if you share my passion for shellfish.
Recent investments in the peninsula's infrastructure have paid off, and a 90-minute flight from Chennai, in southern India, will take you to Jaffna.
I traveled to Jaffna for two nights in a vehicle with my guide from Colombo. To get a feel for the city's centuries-old fishing culture, vital to Jaffna's economy, it's worth getting up early to visit one of the city's chaotic fish markets, where residents, auctioneers, and fishermen come together to trade seafood.
Then, you may see local life through a market selling fresh fruit. Locals love to swing by to stock up on supplies and bargain for handmade goods.
As a last stop, I had crab curry, one of Jaffna's most famous meals. A side of string hoppers and rice accompanied it; both were made using ingredients from the area. Out of all the curries I've had, this was among the best.
Stripping cinnamon in Galle
Cinnamon sticks being prepared
A cinnamon plantation is about an hour's drive inland from Galle on the southern coast, so it's well worth your time.
They greeted me with a cinnamon drink and introduced me to the staff when I arrived. They will demonstrate the process of chopping down a tree, removing its branches, and drying them before they are exported in smaller sticks. After seeing the rolling and packing process that gives cinnamon its characteristically thick look, I returned home and viewed the spices in a new light.
The tour guide gave me a tool that looked like a potato peeler to practice peeling the bark (the more giant blades were for the experts).
Start planning your trip to Sri Lanka
Start thinking about your experience. These itineraries are simply suggestions for how you could enjoy some of the same experiences as our specialists. They’re just for inspiration, because your trip will be created around your particular tastes.
