Banteay Srei and the Angkor Outer Temples: Preah Khan, Pre Rup, Beng Mealea and More

Most visitors queue for Angkor Wat and the Bayon, then leave. But some of Angkor’s most beautiful sights lie further out, quieter and often more atmospheric. Here are the outer temples our specialists build into every itinerary.

Banteay Srei: the jewel of Angkor

Built in the late tenth century and dedicated to Shiva, Banteay Srei is a small temple that stands out for the quality of its carving. Its red-pink sandstone is cut so finely that the decoration looks like lacework, with deep relief carvings of mythological scenes.

• Distance: about 25 km north of Siem Reap, roughly 35 to 60 minutes by car or tuk-tuk, so combine it with the outer temples on the way back.
• Best time: early morning or late afternoon, when the pink stone glows and tour buses are fewer.
• Time needed: about an hour.

The story of Banteay Srei

Unusually, Banteay Srei was not built by a king but by a Brahmin courtier, and an inscription dates its consecration to 967. Its name is usually translated as “citadel of women” or “citadel of beauty”, perhaps because of the delicacy of its carvings. The temple was rediscovered by French archaeologists in the early 20th century, and in 1923, the young André Malraux was arrested for trying to remove carved figures from it. It later became one of the first Angkor temples to be restored by anastylosis, in which a monument is taken apart and rebuilt with its original stones.

Look for the pediment showing the demon king Ravana shaking Mount Kailasa, home of Shiva, and the graceful female guardian figures (devata) in the niches of the central towers. Some original pediments are now kept in museums, including the National Museum in Phnom Penh, and replicas stand in their place.

Pair it with Kbal Spean and the Landmine Museum

From Banteay Srei, continue about half an hour north to Kbal Spean, where a forest trail of about 1.5 km leads to a riverbed carved with lingas and Hindu deities. The water runs over them most clearly after the rainy season. On the way back, the Cambodia Landmine Museum tells the story of mine clearance and supports a school for affected children.

Preah Khan

A large twelfth-century temple, once a Buddhist university, with long corridors of collapsed stone, trees growing out of walls and a quieter feel than Ta Prohm. It sits on the Grand Circuit and is a good choice for a leisurely late-afternoon walk.

Neak Pean and Ta Som

Neak Pean is a small island temple in the middle of an ancient reservoir, reached by a wooden walkway across a seasonal pool. Nearby Ta Som is a small, atmospheric temple with a strangler fig engulfing its east gate.

East Mebon and Pre Rup

These two tenth-century temple mountains stand above the surrounding rice fields. Pre Rup is a favorite for sunrise or sunset: it is quieter than Angkor Wat, and its upper terrace offers sweeping views.

Banteay Kdei and Ta Prohm

Banteay Kdei, near Srah Srang, is a peaceful temple with far fewer visitors than neighboring Ta Prohm. Ta Prohm, wrapped in giant silk-cotton and strangler fig trees, is Angkor’s most photographed jungle temple; arrive early and go counterclockwise to avoid the groups.

Beng Mealea

About an hour east of Siem Reap, Beng Mealea is a vast twelfth-century temple that has been largely left to the jungle, with fallen towers, moss-covered galleries and tree roots through the stone. It is Angkor’s most adventurous temple, reached by raised walkways. Many travelers combine it with Kulen Mountain and a visit to the Tonle Sap lake in a day.

The Roluos Group: Angkor’s beginnings

About 13 km east of Siem Reap, the temples of Roluos mark Hariharalaya, one of the earliest capitals of the Khmer Empire, in the late ninth century. Preah Ko has finely carved brick towers, Bakong is an early stepped pyramid that set the pattern for later temple mountains, and Lolei once stood on an island in a reservoir. The site is a quiet half-day visit and makes Angkor’s history easier to understand when visited first.

Banteay Samre

East of the great East Baray reservoir, Banteay Samre is a 12th-century temple in the style of Angkor Wat, restored and complete, with galleries and carvings that few visitors see. It fits nicely on the way to or from Banteay Srei.

A sample three-day route

1. Day 1: Angkor Wat at sunrise, Angkor Thom and the Bayon, Ta Prohm.
2. Day 2: Banteay Srei in the morning, then Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som and East Mebon.
3. Day 3: Pre Rup at sunrise, Banteay Kdei, or a day trip to Beng Mealea.

Practical tips

• You need an Angkor Pass for all temples in the park; see our guide to Angkor Wat tickets. Beng Mealea and the Kulen mountains charge separate fees.
• Bring water and sun protection; there is little shade at some temples.
• Roads between temples are good but distances add up, so use a car and driver.

See Angkor with a private guide

With a guide who knows the quiet corners, a three-day visit feels very different. Explore our private Cambodia tours or read our full Temples of Angkor travel guide.

Banteay Srei: FAQ

Why is Banteay Srei special?

Its tenth-century pink sandstone carvings are among the finest in Angkor.

How far is Banteay Srei from Siem Reap?

About 25 km, 35 to 60 minutes by car.

Is Banteay Srei included in the Angkor Pass?

Yes, it is covered by the Angkor Pass.

What is the quietest temple at Angkor?

Banteay Kdei, Preah Khan and Pre Rup are quieter than Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm, especially early or late in the day.

How many days do I need for the outer temples?

One full day for Banteay Srei and the Grand Circuit, plus a half-day for Beng Mealea if you want it.

Can I combine Banteay Srei with Kbal Spean?

Yes. Kbal Spean is about half an hour further north, with a forest walk to the riverbed carvings. Go in the morning, before the heat.

Are the Roluos temples worth visiting?

Yes, especially for history lovers. They are among the oldest temples of the Angkor region and are quiet and easy to reach.